Druffel Design and Landscape


  1. SPRING – Fall under 80 degrees F (cloudy): Water 1 – 2 times a day making sure not to miss any areas.
  2. SPRING – Fall under 80 degrees F (full sun): Water 3 – 5 times a day moving the sprinklers often (20-40 minutes in each area).
  3. SUMMER – over 80 degrees F: Keep water on lawn as much as possible during the daylight hours (under full sun conditions). Move the sprinkler continuously all day. (20-30 minutes in each area).
  4. Start watering as soon as there is an area installed that is large enough to start a sprinkler. If someone is not home to water during the day, a timer will allow you to control the water while you are not there.
  5. Watering should be done between approximately 9:00 am – 6:00 pm: during the heat of the day. This type of watering helps keep the scorch of the sun from affecting the initially tender sod.
  6. Having soaked the lawn is not cause to discontinue watering; keep moving the sprinkler around the yard.
  7. Do not water at night after the lawn has become “soaked”. Night is a good time for the lawn to dry out a little.
  8. Stay off the sod for the first couple of weeks until the soil has firmed.
  9. Try to do all the watering from the edges of the lawn; do not walk across the new sod.
  10. After the initial 2 – 3 weeks the lawn will require 1” of water per week.
  11. Once the soil has firmed (2 – 3 weeks) allow the lawn to dry for a day or two, then set the mower at 3” and mow the lawn.
  12. The basic mowing rule is never mow off more than 1/3 of the leaf blade during a single mowing.
  13. After 30 days, a balanced fertilizer application will be needed. Then, the lawn should be put on a regular fertilization program. If you would be interested, please give our office a call.

An Interview with Brandon Druffel, Registered Landscape Architect (RLA)

Check out Brandon’s latest interview with Jim Hansel for the University of Cincinnati Horticulture program! Watch for some great insights into the world of landscape design.

Spring is Springing!

Every time we talk about improving a landscape people request a low maintenance planting. Really people are asking for no maintenance plants, but the patent is still pending on those!  We get it, life is busy and the last thing you want to do is create more work for yourself. Since there is no such thing as a maintenance free plant, we’ll have to continue doing what is necessary for our landscapes to thrive. Early spring is a crucial time to get out in the garden. This is typically our quickest visit to our client’s yards, but it sets the course for the rest of the year.

Late February and March is the time to get out there and prune back your Summer flowering plants prior to the bloom set. This allows for the plant size to be controlled without missing out on the blooms. This plant list includes your Roses, many of your Hydrangeas, Beautyberry among others. If you don’t do this now, you’re either going to have much larger plants or you’re going to sacrifice your blooms in order to keep them in check.

It is also the time that the Boxwoods need to be treated for Psyllid and Leaf Miner. The Boxwoods are treated now with a soil drench so that the systemic has made its way through the plant prior to the bloom cycle. If this is done later in the season you can kill any pollinators who try to feed on the Boxwoods.

In our opinion, the most important thing you can do for your garden and sanity this time of year is to get down your pre-emergent. Pre-emergent acts as a soil sterilizer. This helps prevent germination of new weeds in your garden. This is beneficial for several reasons. First, nobody wants weeds in their garden. Second, if you have fewer weeds that means less competition for your landscape plants. Third, once you get weeds, they can be difficult to eradicate and once your weeds go through a bloom cycle you’ve just allowed them to propagate your problem.

Doing landscape maintenance is kind of like going to the gym. If you only do it once a year it is really going to be a challenge and is pretty much a losing battle. If you do a little bit at a time throughout the entire course of the year you’ll be in better shape and have better results.


In addition to watering, your new landscape will require on-going care and maintenance. Every plants needs are different, but routine maintenance will always be needed. This is a general outline of what is needed to keep your landscape healthy and looking good.


Apply pre-emergent, fertilize, prune tender shrubs, treat boxwoods, deer scram application, change lighting timer for daylight savings time, schedule your irrigation to be turned on.


Prune shrubs that have already flowered, second application of pre-emergent, mulch (we recommend waiting as long as possible to let the soil dry out), turn on irrigation system, fertilize plants as needed, apply herbicide for weeds.


Fertilize azaleas with slow release, prune spring flowering shrubs (prior to July 4th), second application of deer scram, apply herbicide for weeds.

FALL MAINTENANCE: (September – December)

Schedule irrigation blow out, change lighting timer for daylight savings time, blow out beds, install deer protection (by September 1st), disconnect hoses and winterize water features (by Thanksgiving), deeply water evergreens, bring in all fragile pottery.

We understand, landscape maintenance can be a messy business. Find out more about our landscape maintenance packages here: https://druffeldl.com/services/


Now that you have invested in a new landscape, it is important to protect your investment through proper landscape watering practices. Plants prefer infrequent deep watering to saturate the entire rootball. This will encourage the roots to grow deeply. If you only water at the surface the roots will only grow at the surface allowing the root-zone to quickly dry out. Do not rely on rain to water new plantings. Probe the soil before you water and then water accordingly. If there is moisture in the soil the plants should be fine. If it is dry you need to water. Do not water saturated soils.

Spring Watering

When it is not too hot or too dry, new plants should be watered once a week for about two hours.

Summer Watering

When it is hot, dry, and humid, plants should be watered about twice a week. Summer watering practices will vary due to several factors including sun exposure, slope, and temperature. If the grade is steep, it will require more water. Deep heavy watering or a thorough soaking is best. Please probe the soil to see if it is moist or wet. Check again in a few days, and if dry, water again.

Fall Watering

When it is not too hot, plants can be watered less often. Evergreens, however, will need more water in the fall to help them sustain their foliage over the long winter months.

New plantings will need to be watered in this fashion for the first year (until the ground freezes). They may also need some supplemental watering if the following summer is hot and dry.